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La Fortuna Hot Springs: A Local's Guide to Where to Soak

La Fortuna Hot Springs: A Local's Guide to Where to Soak

I live in La Fortuna, and the question I get asked most often by friends who come to visit is always the same: "Okay, which hot springs should we go to?" Fair question. Around the Arenal Volcano you'll find everything from a five-star thermal resort to a warm river you can sit in for free, and they're all good for different reasons.

I also work at Montaña de Fuego, so yes, I'm a little biased about where you should sleep. But I'll give you the same honest answer I give my friends: the places I actually go to, what each one is like, and how I'd plan the perfect hot springs day.

The quick version

  • Don't miss: El Chollín, the free thermal river. Go early in the morning.
  • Best value: Ecotermales. Not expensive, very complete, and never crowded because they limit entry.
  • Splurge: Tabacón, the five-star experience.
  • On a budget: Termalitas del Arenal and other small, local spots.
  • Where to stay: Montaña de Fuego, on Route 142, the same road as El Chollín, Tabacón and Ecotermales. Our thermo-mineral pools and volcanic mud station are included for every guest, so you can end each day in warm water without getting back in the car.

First, why is there so much warm water here?

Arenal is dormant these days. No eruptions, no glowing lava at night like there used to be. But what's underneath hasn't gone anywhere. Rainwater filters into the volcanic rock, picks up heat and minerals, and comes back up in rivers and springs all over the area. That's why you'll find warm water in so many places, and why so much of it is concentrated along Route 142, the road that runs from town toward the volcano.

My local picks

El Chollín: my absolute favorite (and it's free)

If you only do one thing on this list, make it this one. El Chollín is a warm river that runs under a bridge on Route 142, just past the entrance to Tabacón. Locals have been coming here forever. You sit on the rocks, the warm water rushes around you, the rainforest closes in overhead, and you can't believe you didn't pay for it. It's a true must in La Fortuna.

Woman relaxing in El Chollín thermal river, La Fortuna, Costa Rica

A few things I always tell people:

  • Go early. Before 8 a.m. you'll have it almost to yourself. Weekends and afternoons get busy.
  • It's a river, not a spa. There are no bathrooms or changing rooms. Wear your swimsuit under your clothes and bring water shoes, because the rocks are slippery.
  • Parking is on the side of the road. Someone will usually offer to watch your car for a tip. Don't leave anything valuable inside.
  • Skip it after heavy rain. The water rises fast.
  • Take your trash with you. Help us keep it beautiful.

Montaña de Fuego tip: We're on the same road, Route 142, just a short drive away. Stay with us and you can be in the river before the day-trippers arrive, then come back for breakfast.

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Ecotermales: my favorite thermal park

When friends want a "real" hot springs experience without spending a fortune, I send them here. Ecotermales isn't expensive, it's very complete, and it's surrounded by big trees and gardens, so it feels calm and natural. They limit how many people can enter, which means it never feels packed. That's the part I love most.

The pools come in different temperatures, so you can go from very warm to cool and back. Because entry is limited, you need to reserve, especially from December to April. They have day and evening sessions, and the evening one is lovely.

Montaña de Fuego tip: No reservation left at Ecotermales? Don't worry. Our thermo-mineral pools are included for every guest, every day, so you're never left without a soak.

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Tabacón: the five-star experience

Tabacón is the famous one, and for good reason. It's a five-star thermal resort with warm rivers and waterfalls running through lush gardens. If you're celebrating something, on a honeymoon, or just want to treat yourself to one luxurious afternoon, this is the place.

Montaña de Fuego tip: Celebrating? Pair your Tabacón afternoon with a night in one of our Junior Suites, with a private jacuzzi on a covered terrace and the volcano in front of you.

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On a budget: Termalitas and other local spots

There are also smaller, simpler places like Termalitas del Arenal, where you can enjoy warm pools at a friendly price. They're not fancy, but they're relaxed and perfect if you want to soak for a few hours without spending much.

Montaña de Fuego tip: If you're watching your budget, an All Inclusive stay is the easiest way to keep it under control: meals, drinks, pools, mud baths and daily experiences are already covered.

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Where I'd stay: Montaña de Fuego

Here's something people don't think about until they're here: after a full day of hiking, ziplining or rafting, getting back in the car is the last thing you want to do. That's why where you sleep matters so much.

Montaña de Fuego is a sanctuary for rest and adventure, surrounded by 45 hectares of nature. You can experience everything La Fortuna is known for (warm water, volcano views, rainforest trails, wildlife) without ever leaving the resort. It's the kind of place where you stop checking the itinerary and simply enjoy being here.

My favorite moment of the day? Around 5:30 p.m., in the warmest pool, watching the clouds drift over Arenal as the light changes. Nobody's in a hurry. That's the whole point.

Thermo-mineral pools, included for every guest

Our pools are fed by natural volcanic springs and warmed with solar energy, so each one has a slightly different temperature. You can go from hot to cool and back again, with Arenal right in front of you. Kids have their own family pool, which means parents actually get to relax. And this is important: the pools are included for every guest, whatever plan you book. No day pass, no extra charge, no schedule to plan around.

The volcanic mud station

Right next to the pools is one of my favorite things about the hotel. You cover yourself in dark volcanic mud, let it dry for a bit, and rinse it off with warm water. Your skin comes out so soft. Kids go crazy for it, and it usually ends with a few mud-covered selfies.

Free experiences every day

Every guest can join our "Enjoy the Moment" activities at no extra cost: the volcanic mud ritual, 4 km of nature trails through the property, a visit to the Maleku village to learn about one of Costa Rica's Indigenous cultures, a night walk to spot animals, and a 6 a.m. birdwatching walk. With so much regenerated rainforest around, sloths, monkeys and toucans are regular neighbors.

Spa, food and a drink by the pool

For something quieter, P'alma Mud Spa is a few steps from the pools, with treatments made with volcanic mud, raw honey, organic cocoa and local herbs. Couples' treatments are available. When you get hungry, there's Rocca Grill and Fuego Gastro Pub, and the Oropéndola Wetbar serves cocktails and fresh fruit drinks right by the water.

Rooms with a view

Every room has a view of the Arenal Volcano, each from a different angle. My personal favorites: the Superior rooms, with views of both the volcano and the canyon, and the Junior Suites, which have their own jacuzzi on a covered terrace. The Junior Suite is perfect for couples and honeymooners.

"What a beautiful hotel. The mud station and the mineral pools were incredibly relaxing. All the food and drinks included were delicious. I would definitely come back."

— Lindsey, Expedia review

Child enjoying the volcanic mud ritual with his mother at Montaña de Fuego, La Fortuna

Want to forget about the bill?

That's what our All Inclusive plans are for. Your meals and drinks are covered on top of the pools, the mud baths and the daily experiences. You decide how adventurous each day gets. We take care of the rest.

Book direct for our best rate

Our best prices are always here, on our own website. See what's included in All Inclusive

My perfect hot springs day

This is the plan I give friends who stay with us:

  • 6 a.m.: Birdwatching walk at the hotel. Coffee afterward, with the volcano still clear.
  • 7:30 a.m.: Drive a few minutes down Route 142 to El Chollín, before the crowds.
  • 9 a.m.: Back for breakfast, then the volcanic mud station by the pools.
  • Afternoon: An adventure (ziplining, tubing, horseback riding or a volcano hike), or an afternoon at Ecotermales if you want even more soaking.
  • Sunset: Back in our thermo-mineral pools, drink in hand, watching the light change on Arenal.
  • Night: Dinner at Rocca Grill, then the night walk if you still have energy.

A few more tips

  • Drink more water than you think you need. Warm water dehydrates you without you noticing.
  • Go easy on the hottest pools. Switch temperatures and listen to your body. If you're pregnant or have a heart condition, check with your doctor first.
  • Pack light. Swimsuit, water shoes, something warm for after and a waterproof pouch for your phone.
  • Reserve ahead in high season. From December to April, the popular thermal parks and hotels fill up.

Questions I get a lot

Where should I stay in La Fortuna to be close to the hot springs?

Along Route 142, the road from town toward the volcano. That's where you'll find El Chollín, Tabacón and Ecotermales. Montaña de Fuego is on that same road, about 8 km from La Fortuna's central park, and has its own thermo-mineral pools included for every guest.

Is El Chollín really free?

Yes. It's a public river, so there's no entrance fee. The only thing you might pay is a small tip to someone who watches your car while you park on the side of the road.

Which hot springs in La Fortuna are best for families?

Ecotermales and hotels with their own pools are the easiest with kids, because there are facilities and calmer water. El Chollín is fun for older kids, but the rocks and the current call for extra care with little ones. At Montaña de Fuego there's a family pool, and the mud station is always a hit.

Do I need to book the hot springs in advance?

For Ecotermales, yes, because entry is limited. For the bigger thermal parks, it's a good idea in high season. El Chollín doesn't need any reservation, and if you stay at Montaña de Fuego, our pools are right there for you.

Do I need a day pass if I'm staying at Montaña de Fuego?

Not to soak. Our thermo-mineral pools and mud station are on the property and included for every guest, whatever plan you book. But I'd still go to El Chollín at least once. It's free, it's close, and it's a La Fortuna classic.

Coming to Arenal soon? Book directly with us for our best rate or take a look at our All Inclusive plans. And if you have questions about the area, just ask. We love helping people plan their days here.